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Getting Around France: Trains, Flights & Car Rentals

Getting Around France: Trains, Flights & Car Rentals

I spent two weeks crisscrossing France last spring—Paris to Lyon by train, then a rental car through Provence, and finally a flight back from Marseille. Each leg taught me something about what works and what doesn’t. Here’s the real breakdown of how to get around France without wasting time or money.

Should you take the train or fly between cities?

For most city-to-city travel, the train wins. France’s TGV network is fast, punctual, and drops you in city centers—no airport security queues or shuttle buses. I took the TGV from Paris Gare de Lyon to Lyon Part-Dieu in exactly two hours. No delays, no fuss.

Flights make sense only for long hauls—say, from Paris to Nice (about 1.5 hours in the air) or from Lyon to Marseille when you’re short on time. But factor in the 45-minute RER B ride from central Paris to Charles de Gaulle, plus the 90-minute check-in buffer. Suddenly that “quick flight” eats half a day.

When to choose each:

  • Train for routes under 4 hours: Paris–Lyon (2h), Lyon–Marseille (1h40), Paris–Marseille (3h)
  • Flight for routes over 5 hours by rail: Paris–Nice, or Lyon–Biarritz
  • Train if you’re staying in city centers—stations are walkable to most hotels
  • Flight if you’re connecting to a smaller regional airport like Nîmes or Montpellier

How does the TGV compare to budget trains like Ouigo?

The TGV inOui is the standard—comfortable seats, power outlets, a café car, and you can bring luggage without drama. I paid €89 for a Paris–Lyon ticket booked three weeks out. Ouigo, SNCF’s budget brand, starts at €19 for the same route, but you’re paying for the discount with trade-offs.

I tried Ouigo once from Lyon to Marseille. The seats are fine, but you must pay for luggage over carry-on size (€5–€20 per bag), there’s no café car, and delays happen more often. Also, Ouigo often uses stations outside city centers—Lyon’s Ouigo stop is at Lyon Saint-Exupéry airport, not Part-Dieu. That cost me an extra €15 and 30 minutes on a shuttle bus.

My take: Book TGV inOui if you value time and convenience. Use Ouigo if you’re on a tight budget and traveling light.

What’s the best way to get around Paris?

Paris is walkable for short hops, but you’ll need the Métro for longer distances. I bought a carnet of 10 tickets (€16.90 in 2024) and it lasted me three days. The lines are color-coded and easy to follow—Line 1 runs east–west past the Louvre, Line 4 goes north–south through Montparnasse.

For airport transfers, skip taxis. The RER B from Gare du Nord to CDG costs €11.45 and takes 35 minutes. From Orly, take the Orlyval light rail to Antony station, then RER B into town. I made the mistake of taking a taxi from CDG once—€65 and stuck in traffic for an hour.

Neighborhoods and transit tips:

  • Le Marais is best explored on foot—narrow streets, no Métro needed
  • Montmartre requires the funicular (same ticket as Métro) unless you want to climb 300 steps
  • Gare de Lyon and Gare Montparnasse are the main train hubs for southbound TGVs
  • Vélib’ bike rentals are cheap (€5 for a day pass) but watch for hills in the 18th arrondissement

How do you get around Lyon without a car?

Lyon’s public transport is underrated. The Métro has four lines (A, B, C, D), and the funicular from Vieux Lyon to Fourvière is a must for the basilica views. I stayed near Place Bellecour and could walk to the Presqu’île shopping streets or cross the Saône to Vieux Lyon in ten minutes.

For day trips, take the TER regional train. I did a half-day to Pérouges, a medieval hill town 40 minutes away. The ticket was €12 round-trip, and the station is a 15-minute walk from the village gates. Don’t bother renting a car in Lyon—parking is expensive and traffic on the Périphérique is brutal.

Key routes:

  • Line D connects Gare de la Part-Dieu to Bellecour (3 stops)
  • Funicular from Vieux Lyon to Fourvière (€2.10, runs every 10 minutes)
  • TER from Lyon Part-Dieu to Grenoble (1h15, €20)
  • Bus C3 from Hôtel de Ville to Parc de la Tête d’Or (free with Métro pass)

When should you rent a car in France?

Rent a car only when you’re leaving major cities. I picked up a car in Lyon’s Part-Dieu station for a week in Provence, and it was the right call. Driving through the Luberon villages—Gordes, Roussillon, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue—is impossible by train. But in Lyon or Marseille, a car is a liability.

Marseille traffic is aggressive. I drove into the city once and spent 20 minutes circling Vieux Port for parking (€35 for two hours). In Paris, don’t even think about it. Stick to trains for city-to-city, then rent locally for rural exploration.

Rental car tips:

  • Book through a broker like Holiday Autos or Auto Europe for better rates than direct
  • Avoid renting at airports—city-center stations (like Gare de Lyon or Gare Saint-Charles) are cheaper
  • Check for manual transmission—automatics are rare and cost 30% more
  • Toll roads (autoroutes) cost about €0.10 per km—have cash or a credit card ready

How do you navigate Marseille without a car?

Marseille’s Métro has two lines (M1 and M2), but it’s limited. The city is hilly and spread out. I used the RTM bus network more than the Métro. Bus 83 runs from Vieux Port to Le Panier and La Canebière—the main drag. For the Calanques, take bus 21 from Castellane to Cassis (45 minutes, €2.60).

The Navette Maritime (ferry) is the best way to see the coast. I took it from Vieux Port to L’Estaque for €5—views of the Frioul Archipelago on the way. For the airport, the L91 bus from Saint-Charles station to Marseille Provence costs €8.60 and runs every 15 minutes.

Neighborhoods and transit:

  • Vieux Port is walkable—restaurants, markets, ferry docks
  • Le Panier is a maze of alleys—skip the tourist shops, grab a panisse at Chez Éric
  • Métro M2 from Saint-Charles to Rond-point du Prado (for Parc Borély)
  • TER from Marseille Saint-Charles to Aix-en-Provence (30 minutes, €8)

FAQ

Is the France rail pass worth it for a week-long trip? Only if you’re making three or more long-distance trips. The Eurail France Pass starts at €184 for three travel days. I priced it against point-to-point TGV tickets for Paris–Lyon–Marseille–Paris, and the pass was €20 cheaper. But you still pay a €10–€20 reservation fee per train. For two trips, buy individual tickets. For four or more, the pass saves money.

Can you drive from Paris to the Riviera in one day? Yes, but you’ll regret it. It’s 700 km—about 7.5 hours without stops, plus tolls (€55) and fuel (€80). I did it once and arrived frazzled. Better to take the TGV to Marseille (3 hours) and rent a car there for the coastal drive to Nice (2.5 hours on the A8).

What’s the cheapest way to get from Paris to Lyon? Ouigo from Paris Bercy to Lyon Saint-Exupéry starts at €19 if you book two weeks ahead. But factor in the shuttle from Saint-Exupéry to central Lyon (€15, 30 minutes). Total cost: €34 and 3 hours. The TGV from Gare de Lyon to Part-Dieu is €89 but door-to-door in 2 hours. Your time is worth the extra €55.

Conclusion

  • Trains (TGV inOui) are the backbone of intercity travel—fast, central, reliable
  • Ouigo is a budget option but check station locations and luggage fees
  • Rental cars are essential for rural Provence but a headache in Paris, Lyon, or Marseille
  • Métro and buses handle city transit—buy carnets in Paris, RTM passes in Marseille
  • Flights only for long routes like Paris–Nice or connecting to smaller airports